![]() ![]() If I have nooks and crannies like a round bottom Gomph or vizzard edger, I use an angled piece of hard leather to get into the corner OR I use a soft wire wheel and lightly do the top with that rotating away from the blade edge. ![]() Some edgers have the top in a slot and compound on stiff cardboard works well for me. If the edger is good it doesn't take much of a convex to hold it. It is more durable on thin stock edgers and holds better. On the bottom I rotate up slightly at the end of the stoke to make a slight convex edge. One I have a pretty fine edge and starting to draw a thin burr evenly across the width, I start stropping. It is more accessible and easier for me to maintain a consistant angle. It will remove some metal maybe, but if I work it right I get the best edges. Once I get to a strop, I use green compound. work up a grit or two and get to a nice even pretty smooth edge. 600something to 800 wet-dry is about where I start on most edgers. By the time you have worked that out with progressively finer grits you have wasted time and metal. If you start too coarse you might end with a more ragged edge than you started with. Most edgers just need a touch up first and then a good stropping. More damage is done by using a heavier grit than necessary and then trying to work that out. ![]() In a nutshell until I get the sketches done, here's the abridged version.Ībrasives - Use very fine stones or fine wet-dry. It is one of the most common questions I get. I am in the middle of doing a tutorial on edge beveler sharpening now. ![]()
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December 2022
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